Turned shoe



(No Model.)

J. S. TITGOMB.

Fig.1.

Fig.2.

' UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

JOHN S. TITCQ MB, OF HAVERHILL, MASSACHUSETTS.

TURNED SHOE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 415,077, dated November 12, 1889.

Application filed December 29, 1888. Serial No. 294,934. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern.-

Be it known that 1, JOHN S. TITOOMB, of I-Iaverhill, county of Essex, State of Massachusetts, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Turned Shoes and the Process of Making the Same, of which the following is a specification, reference being had to the drawings accompanying and forming a part hereof, in which Figure 1 is a cross-section of a sole, showing the way in which the sole is channeled.

Fig. 2 is a cross-section of a sole, showing its appearance after it is fitted and ready to be applied to the last. Fig. 3 is a cross-section showing a last with the sole and upper thereon, as also the'method of securing the sole to the upper and the position of the parts relatively to the needle and work-rest of the sewing-machine. Fig. 4 is a section showing the shoe after it'is turned and beaten down.

The object of my invention is the construction of a turned shoe having a sole of substantially the same width as the sole of the last used in its construction and in which the upper is secured to a lip or projection on the inside of the sole by means of aline of stitches which may be made by a straight needle, the

said lip or projection being raised from the sole by channeling, the channel being cut outwardly-that is, from a point toward the center of the sole to another nearer the edge thereof, and thus leaving the edge of the sole,

when the shoe is finished, the full thickness of the sole, and producing what may be termed a thick-edgeZ shoe.

I am aware that it is not new to construct a shoe by channeling the sole outwardly, (said sole being substantially wider than the sole of the last used in making the shoe,) placing said sole on the last and turning down the outer edges thereof over the edges of the last,

recessed or not more stock is used'in the sole and' the turned edges thereof must be reset in a normal fiat condition, which adds to the expense of finishing the shoe. I overcome these difficulties without using other than an ordinary last, and my upper is drawn tightly to and conforms with the sides of the last. Turned shoes have also been constructed by securing the upper to aprojecting lip formed on the sole by slitting the sole inwardly from the edge, or from a point near the edge, pressing back the lip so formed, and then securing the upper to the lip. By this method of fitting the sole and producing the projecting lip to which the upper is secured a shoe in which the sole edge is thinner than the other parts of the sole is necessarily produced, and this edge gives the shoe the appearance of having a lighter and more unsubstantial sole than it really has, which is undesirable. So far as known to me, all thickedge turned shoes are made by channeling the sole without producing a projecting lip, and by using a bent needle which carries the stitches down to a point usually about twothirds through the sole, and thus producing a shoe which has much less durability, a comparatively slight amount of wear being suflicient to wear away the soleunder the stitches and expose the stitches. I If, however, the stitches be placed through the base of a projecting lip, as in my present invention, the sole must be worn through, or substantially so, before the stitches are exposed. The sole employed in making a shoe with a bent needle must also be of comparatively good stock, else the shoe will be inferior, while by placing the stitches through the base of a projecting lip stock of an inferior quality may be used with good results.

By my present invention I am enabled to produce a shoe having all the advantages of securing the upper to a projecting-lip by the use of a straight needle, while at the same time'the full thickness of the sole shows at Fig. 1, the base of the lip being toward the edge of the sole, which is preferably pressed back or bent over at the edge, as shown at a Fig. 2, so as to expose the lip fully to the action of the needle of the machine. The lip 12 may be turned and pressed back out of the channel for the convenience of the operator, so as to cause it to stand at right angles, or substantially so, to the sole; but I do not deem this essential, as a Work-support maybe used in sewing the shoe adapted to project under the lip, and thus raise the lip as the sewing progresses.

The sole, fitted as above described, is placed 011 the last A and the upper d applied to the last, the edge of the upper being brought over the edge of the sole and against the projecting lip b, as shown, Fig. 3. The shoe is then sewed, the needle passing through the upper and lip. After sewing, the surplus lip and upper may be trimmed oil, if desired. The last is then drawn, the shoe turned and again placed on the last and beaten out and finished in the usual manner.

In most grades of shoes I have found that trimming was not necessary, although it is:

usually desirable at the toe and heel. A filler may be placed on the sole under the stockinglining when necessary. As will be clear, the

width and thickness of the lip b may be va ried as required.

\Vhen the shoe is beaten out, the stitches will lie in an oblique position, substantially as shown, Fig. 4, and as a result the shoe will be nearly or quite as flexible as a-hand-sewed shoe, while in shoes made by using a sole having a lip formed by channeling in the opposite directionthat is, from the edge inwardlythe stitches are substantially horizontal in position, and a ridge of leather is formed along the seam which detracts much from the flexibility of the shoe.

hat. I claim is- The process of making a turned shoe, consisting in first channeling the sole so as to produce thereon a lip, said channel extending outwardly from the central portion of the sole toward the edge thereof, then placing the sole' upon the last, said sole being of the width. of the sole of the last, substantially, and not turned over against the sides thereof, and bringing the edge of the upper closely against the sides of the last and over the edge of the sole and against the lip thereon, then securing the upper to the sole by a line of straight stitches passing through the upper and through the base of said lip, then turning and finishing the shoe, all substantially as shown and described.

JOHN S. TI'ICOMB.

\Vitnesscs:

WM. A. MACLEOD, J. P. REYNOLDS. 

